Monstera deliciosa is one of my favorite plants to propagate, because it’s so easy and rewarding to see them grow from a single stalk into a full-grown plant. I haven’t always had success, though, and I recently realized it was because I wasn’t paying enough attention to the nodes when taking cuttings.
A node is the part of a plant where all new growth (leaves, stems, and aerial roots) originates. When cutting a Monstera deliciosa to propagate, slicing a few inches under the node ensures a cutting with all the elements needed to grow into a new plant.
Understanding and being able to identify nodes is essential when you are pruning or propagating your Monstera. Below is a brief guide to nodes and what they look like. Then I’ll explain exactly how to make sure you take a cutting with a node when you propagate Monsteras and even how to propagate a cutting with only a node and a stem.
What is a Monstera Node?
The stem of any plant is made up of nodes and internodes. The nodes are the parts where new growth can emerge from the stem (including leaves, branches, and aerial roots). The internodes are simply the areas between the nodes. Monsteras tend to have a lot of nodes because they are vining plants.
Knowing that growth originates in the nodes, you can influence your Monstera’s growth depending on how you use them. If you want to encourage new growth from a specific area, you would prune above the node (that is, leaving the node on the part of the stem that’s still attached to the plant). If you want to propagate the stem you’re cutting off, you would cut below the node (taking the node with the cutting).
The node contains the cluster of cells needed to produce new growth. The same node can produce different types of growth depending on the conditions it is in, allowing the plant to adapt to its environment.
Can you Propagate a Monstera Without a Node?
If you accidentally knock a leaf off your Monstera, it is natural to want to save it by propagating a new plant from the piece. Unfortunately, it isn’t possible to propagate a Monstera unless your cutting has a node.
You can read my full article about it here, but the simple explanation is that a Monstera needs a node to reproduce. This is because the required cells for new growth are concentrated in these areas of the plant.
Some people have grown some roots on a Monstera leaf without a node, but that leaf will always be just a leaf. Without a node, there is no place for any new growth to emerge.
How Can You Identify a Node on a Monstera Deliciosa?
What does a Monstera node look like? The first few times, it can be difficult to be sure if you have really found a node on your Monstera or not. The first way to identify a node is by location: if there is (or was) a leaf or stem splitting off from the main stem, there will always be a node just below that growth. This is because Monsteras need that node to generate growth.
The appearance of a Monstera node can differ depending on how mature the stem is, but you will usually see a brown, dry-looking ring around the stem. This part of the stem may be thicker than the internodes or have knobby growth. Sometimes an aerial root will already have emerged, which is a clear sign of a node being present.
Monstera deliciosa usually has a large number of nodes because it is a vining plant that produces growth from many different locations on a single stem. If you are not sure that you have found a node at first, try looking elsewhere on the plant to see if you can locate one that’s more obvious.
Don’t worry if you’re a little unsure the first time. Once you have observed your Monstera for a while and propagated a few stems, you will become more confident about what is or isn’t a node. In the meantime, you could always get a second opinion from a knowledgeable friend or an online plant group.
How to Take Monstera Cuttings With a Node
If you want to propagate your Monstera, you’ll need to take a cutting that includes a node. You already know how to identify the node, so find the stem or stems on your plant that you want to take for cuttings. You will bet the fastest results by using a stem with a few nodes, an aerial root, and 2-3 healthy leaves.
I usually use a sharp garden knife to take Monstera cuttings, but you can also use garden shears. Be sure to sterilize your tool before you cut to avoid spreading any disease to your plant.
Carefully cut through the stem a couple of inches below the node (or below the lowest node, if there are more than one). This ensures that you get the full node and don’t accidentally cut into it. If the stem is too hard to cut through cleanly, stop, and look for a tool that’s better suited to the purpose. You want to make sure the stem doesn’t get compressed or damaged while you are cutting.
Let your cutting sit for just a few minutes to let the cut area callous over, as this helps prevent rotting. After the cut end is dry to the touch, you will be ready to root your Monstera cutting.
Rooting Your Monstera Cutting
When it comes to rooting your Monstera cutting, you could choose to start it in soil or water. Personally, I find the water rooting method to be easier and more satisfying because you can see the roots growing and know that the propagation was successful. If you want to plant the cutting directly in the soil, skip down to the next section.
You can do water propagation in basically any container that holds water without leaking, but I like to use clear glass containers so I can see the roots grow. Make sure the container will be sturdy and tall enough that the cuttings won’t fall over.
Place your Monstera stems in the container and add water. Make sure the nodes and any aerial roots are below the waterline but keep all leaves above the waterline. You can cut small leaves off the stem if you like. Then put your cuttings in place that gets bright, indirect light.
Within a few weeks, you should start to see roots emerge. Once the longer roots are at least two inches long, you can transplant the cutting into a pot.
Planting your Monstera Cutting
Once you’re ready to pot up your Monstera deliciosa, obviously you will need a pot! Choose one that isn’t too big. Larger pots hold a lot of soil, which in turn retains a lot of moisture, and Monsteras don’t like that. I prefer a plastic pot with several drainage holes, which I then put inside a decorative cachepot.
Monsteras aren’t too picky about potting soil, but make sure to choose one that isn’t too dense. It should drain water quickly and feel “fluffy.” You can mix some perlite into your potting soil to help with drainage if needed.
Start with a layer of potting soil at the bottom of the pot, then add the Monstera stem and fill in soil around it. All the nodes and roots should be covered with soil. You could also choose to add a moss pole to the pot so the plant has something to climb as it gets larger.
Give the cutting plenty of water (until it runs out the drainage holes), and add more soil if needed. Place the plant in a bright location but not in direct sunlight.
Sometimes Monsteras will droop or lose leaves after being moved from water to soil, but they are hearty plants and should recover soon. Don’t worry too much if you see the symptoms of shock for a couple of weeks after planting.
Propagating a Monstera with a Leafless Node
If you are shopping for rare and trendy plants (I’m seeing a lot of variegated plants fall into this category, like Monstera albo and Monstera Thai Constellation), you will see sellers offering sections of a stem with just a single node – no leaves and few or no roots. They are sold under the names “stem cutting,” “node cutting,” and “wet sticks.”
Monstera node cuttings tend to be three to four inches long, with a single node in the middle of the piece. They usually only have one node since the seller can maximize their selling price by selling each node cutting individually.
Remember how I mentioned that nodes contain all the necessary cells to generate a new plant? This is a perfect example of that principle. Although it takes longer than the propagation method I mentioned above, it is definitely possible to grow a Monstera just from a piece of stem with a node.
The method for propagating a node cutting takes more patience and a few extra supplies, but luckily it isn’t difficult. But before explaining the technique, it is important to understand how to choose a healthy node cutting.
Choosing a Monstera Node Cutting
If possible, you should try to see the cuttings in person before you purchase them. Since the pieces are so small and expensive, you want to make sure they are 100% healthy to maximize your chances of success.
If you’re buying online, request photos of the actual node cuttings being offered, and verify that there are photos of all sides of the piece. Check reviews and try to buy from reputable sellers. You should also know that just because a node has been cut from a variegated plant, variegation is never guaranteed, so be careful.
Ideally, the node cutting will already have at least a few inches of aerial root growing from it. This will let you know there is a healthy node that can generate new growth. It should not have any black or mushy spots that could indicate rot.
Variegated plant node cuttings will sometimes show variegation on the stem, but not always. The appearance of the stem isn’t necessarily similar to what the leaves will eventually look like, which is another reason it is so important to find a seller you can trust.
Rooting a Monstera Node Cutting
It would be difficult to root a node cutting in water because their size and shape doesn’t suit being suspended in a container of water. Instead, you will basically create a mini greenhouse to provide your Monstera node cuttings the best possible environment to grow. Start by gathering these supplies:
Growing medium: You can use sphagnum moss, coco coir, or potting mix.
Container: something shallow and wide. I like to reuse plastic food containers.
Cover: freezer bags usually work well, or plastic wrap. It should let in light and be big enough to seal around the container.
Inspect the Monstera node cutting and see if it has a start of a root coming out. Often a little nub will be emerging from one side of the node. If there is one, you’ll want to place that side down (so the nub is in contact with the growing medium). If you can’t find one, you can place any side down.
Setting It Up: Put a shallow layer of your growing medium in the bottom of the container. The node cuttings won’t be growing here for very long, so you don’t need much. Place your node cuttings on the growing medium and mist the whole thing lightly. Be careful not to use too much water here, because you don’t want your cuttings to get too wet.
After that, just place the container in the freezer bag or plastic wrap and seal it closed. Make sure the cover is not touching the cutting because that will cause moisture to collect on that part of the plant. Place the container in a sunny spot or under a grow light, and then it’s time to wait.
Watering: You shouldn’t need to water your node cuttings very often since the moisture will condense on the inside of the bag and create a high-humidity environment. The growing medium should stay moist but not wet, and you can check periodically (around once a week is good). If it seems a little dry, mist it again.
You might not see anything happening for a few months. It takes a lot longer for growth to come from a leafless node cutting than a regular cutting because it doesn’t have leaves to capture energy from the sun.
Eventually, you should see roots emerging from the node. This is exciting, but don’t do anything yet. Keep on caring for the stem cuttings in the same way. The next thing that will happen is that a leaf should emerge.
You might need to prop up the plastic cover, so it’s not touching the leaf. As that leaf grows larger and more leaves emerge, you may need to revise your setup to give them more room to grow.
Planting a Rooted Node Cutting
When I see three to four healthy leaves on my node cuttings, that’s when I start thinking about planting them. I want the plant to look healthy and sturdy; if it doesn’t, I’ll leave it in the greenhouse conditions a while longer.
When you are ready to plant them, start by gently lifting the node cutting out of the growing medium. Try not to break any of the more delicate roots. Don’t worry if some of the growing medium is stuck on the roots; it won’t cause any damage to your new plant.
To plant, use a small pot and your typical well-draining potting mix. Make sure the roots are planted in the soil, but you can leave the stem piece sitting on the top or buried half-way. Over time, this stem piece will dry up and fall off.
Start to finish, growing a Monstera from a leafless node cutting can take as long as four or five months. It definitely takes patience, but it may be the cheapest – or only – way to get your rare wishlist plants.
Understanding some basic plant biology will save you time and frustration when it comes to propagating Monsteras. You can maximize your chances of successfully cloning your plant by using your knowledge of nodes to take cuttings in just the right places.
Rooting a leafless node cutting is a more challenging method of propagating Monsteras, but you just need a few supplies and some patience to make it work. If you are up to the task, it can seem almost magical to produce a healthy new plant from something that looks like a bare stick.
Regardless of how you choose to propagate your Monstera, nodes are certain to play a role. As an added bonus, you can probably locate nodes on all your houseplants now that you know what they are and how they function!