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The Cebu Blue Pothos has been getting a lot of attention lately for its distinctive silvery-blue color and elegant leaves. However, not everyone knows what separates this plant from other Pothos varieties or how to keep it happy. We’ll introduce you to this lovely cultivar and give you a crash course in Cebu Blue Pothos care.
Cebu Blue is a different species from most other Pothos houseplants, and it sports slightly longer leaves and a silvery sheen. Keep yours in well-aerated soil and provide bright, indirect light. Avoiding overwatering is critical for Cebu Blue Pothos care – water only when the top two inches of soil are dry.
The color that gives the Cebu Blue Pothos its name is subtle and requires a delicate balance of light to maintain. This article will provide some tips on how to keep it looking as pretty as possible! We’ll also help you tell it apart from other common plants that look similar.
What Is a Cebu Blue Pothos?
The Pothos varieties we grow indoors belong to the species Epipremnum Aureum. Yes, that means Pothos houseplants aren’t actually in the Pothos genus! Like Sansevierias or many varieties of Calathea, their common name is based on a botanical classification that has since been changed. But gardeners are stubborn, so most of us just kept using the old name.
Cebu Blue, on the other hand, is an Epipremnum Pinnatum. This species is closely related to other Pothos houseplants, and for most practical purposes, you can treat them all as variations on the same type of plant. The most obvious differences are in the shape of the leaves. Cebu Blue leaves are a bit longer and thinner than those of E. Aureum, with tips that curve slightly to one side.
The Cebu Blue variety is named for the island of Cebu (pronounced seh-boo) in the Phillippines, which is where this plant originates. Not all E. Pinnatum leaves have the distinctive coloring of a Cebu Blue. The “standard” version of this plant has a normal dark green hue, much like a Jade Pothos.
Epipremnum Pinnatum has quite a few fun nicknames, including Dragon-Tail Plant, Centipede Tongavine, and Taro Vine. It’s also sometimes called Devil’s Ivy, though this can also be a term for any type of Pothos. However, the following plants are different from Cebu Blue Pothos, even though many people confuse them:
Baltic Blue Pothos
Despite the similarities in the names, Baltic Blue is not the same as Cebu Blue Pothos. Unfortunately, that hasn’t stopped many shady online stores from selling them under the same name. This is usually done to disguise a Baltic Blue Pothos as a Cebu Blue. There’s been a bit of a fad for the latter plant recently, and it commands a higher price.
A Baltic Blue Pothos has a darker green coloration, without the silvery sheen you see on a Cebu Blue. The surface of the foliage is also smoother and glossier on the Baltic Blue.
One other difference: Baltic Blue Pothos leaves tend to fenestrate (grow split edges) earlier and more easily. We’ll talk more about fenestration a little later. Here’s the main thing to remember for now: if you see an Epipremnum Pinnatum with leaves that are starting to split and the plant is still relatively small and juvenile, it’s a Baltic Blue and not a Cebu Blue.
Mini Monstera
Some people ask if Cebu Blue is a Monstera. The answer is no. In fact, this confusion comes from several cases of mistaken identity strung together!
The plant these people are thinking of is Raphidophora Tetrasperma. Though it’s often called a Mini Monstera, it’s not in the Monstera genus at all, even though the split leaves can make it look a bit like one. They’re not even very closely related.
On top of that, it doesn’t even look that much like a Cebu Blue Pothos. What it does resemble is the Baltic Blue, with its small but fenestrated leaves. Still, you can usually tell them apart because the Baltic Blue Pothos leaves are longer and narrower.
So if you’re following along, we have a Raphidophora often mistaken for a Monstera, that’s getting confused with a Pothos, because that Pothos is mixed up with another Pothos! And on top of that, neither of those Pothos plants is actually in the Pothos genus. Botany is weird, guys.
Is Cebu Blue Really Blue?
Some people get a little confused when they see pictures of a silvery green foliage plant labeled as Cebu “Blue”. Where does this name come from? And will you ever see a Pothos that really looks blue?
The truth is that there are no plants on Earth with full-on blue leaves. Remember, plants eat light for fuel, and light in the blue spectrum has the highest energy content. So chlorophyll a, the most important pigment for photosynthesis, is designed to capture most of that tasty blue light. Very little bounces back off the leaves.
When a plant is considered “blue” it usually means it’s closer to blue-green than yellow-green. It might be more accurate to describe these plants as “teal” or “sea-green”. Some also have a bit of misty gray or silver coloring that tricks the eye into thinking the leaves are bluer than they really are.
With Cebu Blue, it’s mostly the latter. The leaf surface has a sparkly silver tint, which makes the green appear slightly bluish. However, this effect varies a lot depending on the ambient light. It’s hard to photograph, but the plant generally looks bluer in real life than in pictures.
Lighting Your Cebu Blue Pothos
Speaking of light and color, how much sun does this plant need? Lighting is one of the slightly trickier aspects of Cebu Blue Pothos care.
The plant needs a good amount of bright light to maintain its shimmery blue-green color. Many Pothos varieties can do fairly well even in dim light, but Cebu Blue is not one of them. But if the light is too intense, it can fade, bleach, or even kill the foliage.
Try to make sure your Cebu Blue Pothos gets 8-12 hours of bright, indirect sunlight per day. “Indirect” sun means that the light isn’t shining straight onto the leaves. If it’s going to get a little bit of direct light, make sure the plant doesn’t get too hot.
Many people have success placing this cultivar in east-facing windows, which get the brightest light during the coolest part of the day. Another good method is to place it in a south-facing window with a filmy curtain to make the light less harsh. You could also keep it four to six feet away from a southern or western exposure.
Grow lamps are always an option as well. Paired with an outlet timer, a grow bulb lets you control exactly how much light your Pothos gets. We’d suggest a broad-spectrum LED light. They’re both more energy-efficient and cooler, making it less likely that you’ll burn your plant’s leaves.
In general, if your Cebu Blue is looking less blue, you should try giving it more light. But always increase the dosage a little bit each day instead of in one big shift.
The Best Soil for Cebu Blue Pothos
Like all Pothos plants, your Cebu Blue needs its roots to stay slightly moist but well-oxygenated. Getting that balance right has a lot to do with the soil. The right potting mix will make Cebu Blue Pothos care easier in several ways:
- Your plant will be better-hydrated
- You’ll be less likely to overwater
- Mineral salts won’t build up as easily in the soil
- The roots will have more space and support for proper growth
The bad news is that the potting soil sold in most garden stores is too thick and clingy. You can raise a healthy Cebu Blue Pothos in it, but you’ll be fighting an uphill battle. You’re better off mixing your own soilless potting mix.
Here’s a simple formula we like a lot: 40% perlite, 30% coco coir, 20% orchid bark chips, and 10% vermicompost. Those proportions are by volume, not weight. If you want the convenience of a ready-made blend, look for one designed for aroid plants. These tend to be pricier, but they also last longer in the pot before needing to be refreshed.
How to Water a Cebu Blue Pothos
You don’t need to overthink your plant’s watering, especially if it’s in loose, breathable soil. When the top two inches of the potting mix feel dry, give your Cebu Blue Pothos a nice long drink. The soil mass should be fully soaked, and water should be trickling out the bottom when you’re done.
After watering, wait two to five days. Then recheck the soil; if it’s dry, repeat the process.
You’ll find that the soil dries out more quickly in hot, sunny weather; this is normal. By watering only when the potting mix feels dry, you’re adapting your Cebu Blue Pothos care to the plant’s needs. That’s exactly what you should be doing.
The plant will wilt and droop when it’s thirsty. If you don’t catch it in time, the leaves will start to turn yellow or brown and crispy at the edges. When this happens, water it thoroughly and start checking on the soil more frequently.
Your Cebu Blue will also wilt if you don’t let it dry out enough between waterings. The leaves may begin to rapidly turn yellow, starting near the bottom of the plant. Prolonged overwatering can lead to root rot, making your plant turn limp and slimy as it starts to die off. If you’ve overwatered your plant, follow the directions in this article to revive it.
How Much Fertilizer Does a Cebu Blue Pothos Need?
Short answer: Not much, but more than zero.
Long answer: Your plant will generally flourish if you give it a small amount of liquid plant fertilizer every six to eight weeks. However, you should only fertilize during the growing season, and the amount it needs will vary depending on how much sunlight it gets.
We suggest starting with half of the dosage the instructions recommend. Keep that up for a few months, and see if your plant seems to be growing healthily. (For reference, a Cebu Blue Pothos getting plenty of light should grow several feet within one growing season.)
If it seems stunted despite getting lots of sun, high-quality soil, and the correct watering schedule, your Cebu Blue might need more fertilizer. Increase the dosage by about ¼, wait six weeks, and see how it responds.
Is it shriveling up and developing crispy tips? Then it’s over-fertilized. Give it an extra-long drink to rinse out the soil and look for other reasons for slow growth. Is it normal-looking but still slow-growing? Step up the dosage a little more.
If you prefer a more natural method, you could use organic fertilizer instead. Or add a one inch layer of compost to the top of the pot every spring. See this article for more info on different types of Pothos fertilizer.
Pruning and Repotting Your Cebu Blue Pothos
You may recall that a healthy Cebu Blue Pothos grows fast. That means it will require repotting every two years or so. When the time comes, move your plant into a new pot that’s about two inches wider than the old one. Make sure the new pot has a drainage hole, and use fresh potting mix each time.
Alternatively, you could prune the roots every other year to keep the plant compact. This is a less common Cebu Blue Pothos care strategy, but it’s useful if you don’t want to keep sizing up your plant’s pot.
Pruning the foliage occasionally is a good idea, especially if you’re growing the plant in a hanging basket. The vines tend to get scraggly as they trail down, and trimming them back reinvigorates them. You can also clip off aging or damaged leaves when you spot them. Use sharp trimmers disinfected with rubbing alcohol.
If you need some guidance, check out these detailed instructions on pruning Pothos roots and leaves!
Humidity and Temperature for a Cebu Blue
Your plant will be most comfortable when the temperature is between 65 and 85 degrees, and the air is reasonably moist. Below 50% relative humidity, the leaves may dry out at the tips and edges, turning crunchy and brown. The ideal moisture level is 60-70%.
In summer, it’s pretty easy to keep your Cebu Blue Pothos comfortable, but winter is a bit more of a challenge. Keep your plant away from poorly insulated windows, heating vents, fireplaces, or doors to the outside. And consider getting a hygrometer so you can check whether the air is getting dangerously dry. Pothos aren’t as picky about humidity as some plants (looking at you, Calathea), but if it’s well below 50%, you may want to get a humidifier.
Will Your Cebu Blue Pothos Fenestrate?
Many people are excited to learn that Pothos plants can develop split leaves like a Monstera. There’s no denying that this looks awesome when it happens. Don’t hold your breath, though. Only mature Pothos leaves split, and it can take more than a decade for them to mature.
The vast majority of indoor Pothos plants are juveniles. As we explained earlier, a small Epipremnum plant that’s fenestrating is likely a Baltic Blue rather than a Cebu Blue. You usually have to let your Pothos climb before it will mature and split, and even then, the process often takes years.
Cebu Blue leaves also lose their distinctive silver-blue sheen when they grow up. You probably won’t care, since the fenestrations look so cool, but it’s worth keeping in mind.
Can a Cebu Blue Pothos Be Variegated?
Who doesn’t love variegated plants? (Cue frustrated screaming from everyone who’s had a fussy Albo Monstera die on them.) Seriously, though, multicolored plants look very cool – can you get a variegated Cebu Blue?
Technically, all Cebu Blue Pothos plants are variegated. Their shiny coloration comes from a quirk of their growth known as blister variegation, in which two layers of leaf tissue separate slightly, forming air bubbles in between them. For complicated physics reasons (something something refraction), this makes them appear pale and silvery-gray compared to normal green leaves.
However, most people asking about variegation mean chimeric variegation – the bright splotches of color that sometimes appear on leaves. This can happen with a Cebu Blue Pothos, but it’s a rare and random mutation. In most cases, it’s sport variegation, meaning a few scattered flecks of color appearing spontaneously.
When the variegation is more widespread and dramatic, it’s usually considered a separate cultivar. You’ll see it sold as Epipremnum Pinnatum Variegata or something similar. The Cebu Blue cultivar is more or less defined by its bluish, sparkly leaves.
Is Cebu Blue Pothos Rare?
Rarity with Pothos plants can be tricky to gauge. They’re easy to propagate and pretty hard to kill. So any well-known variety will be more common than a fragile plant like a White Fusion Calathea.
However, certain Pothos varieties are in high demand but haven’t made their way into the big box garden stores. These can be tough to find, especially in certain regions or during big surges in popularity. The Cebu Blue Pothos is one of the latter, which is why we included it on our list of rare Pothos varieties.
The rarity is increased by the fact that some scammers – or ignorant sellers – mislabel Baltic Blue as Cebu Blue. If you’re buying a Cebu Blue Pothos online, make sure that the seller has good reviews and that the picture clearly shows its misty blue-green color.
Final Thoughts
Cebu Blue Pothos care isn’t much different from raising a more common Pothos variety. You may need to experiment to find the right balance of light and shade to preserve its color. But once you do, you should have a beautiful plant that will thrive and grow for years to come.
